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| Protachem
ISL (Isostearyl Linoleate) is a medium viscosity
plant derived ester with bifunctional properties (emolliency
and moisturization). It is an unusual emollient that combines
the non-occlusive lubricity of a branched chain monoester
with the full-bodied non-oily characteristics of a fatty
acid ester. It has unique skin absorbency properties and
reduces the greasy, oily feel of mineral and plant oils
while enhancing rub-in and film forming properties. A simple
lotion, consisting of Deionized Water, 10% Protachem ISL,
Pemulen TR-2*, Polysorbate 80 and preservative, was compared
to a similar lotion containing 10% Mineral Oil for moisturization
performance by measuring Transepidermal Water Loss (TEWL)
and Skin impedance with a Corneometer. |
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protocol was designed as a 4-week half-face study in which,
after a 1-week wash out period, the panelists applied each
product to half their face and the corresponding forearm
twice daily for a period of 4 weeks. After the 4-week use
period Corneometer readings were taken on the face and TEWL
was measured on the forearm of each panelist. These readings
were compared to base line readings taken after the washout
period. Protachem ISL improved skin moisturization
by approximately 34% and reduced TEWL by approximately 19%
from base line. |
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Following
the 4-week readings all product usage was discontinued and
TEWL and Corneometer readings were continued at 24 hr, 48
hr and 72 hr. As chart 2 shows the moisturization properties
of mineral oil diminished immediately after the product
use was discontinued. In fact after 72 hrs the skin treated
with mineral oil was worse then base line. The skin treated
with Protachem ISL showed significant increases in moisturization
for the 72 hr time span. This proves that the Protachem
ISL is absorbed into the Stratum Corneum and fortifies the
intracellular lipid structure of healthy skin. |
In
addition to the superior moisturization properties
Protachem ISL has excellent pigment dispersing
properties and may be used in various types of
make-up, lip gloss or lipstick, mascara formulations.
It is highly recommended in creams or lotions where it
can partially or totally replace mineral or plant oils
that tend to be oily or greasy. In sunscreen products,
it can solubilize oil soluble sunscreen actives and helps
to reduce the oiliness often associated with these products
and provide a non-greasy emollient feel to skin while
improving the water-resistant properties of the product.
Protachem
ISL can be used in hair conditioning products
to impart shine and softness and to help repair dry damaged
hair.
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| Appearance @ 25°C |
Clear Liquid |
| Color (Gardner) |
6 Max. |
| % Water |
0.5 Max. |
| Acid Value |
3 Max. |
| Saponification Value |
95-115 |
| Iodine Value (Hanus) |
60-80 |
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